Going South to Go North

This has been a cool spring, allowing us to visit the gulf side of Florida, without temperature extremes. By now it is mid-June and time to return to South Carolina, where we are planning to keep our boat again over the summer. Leaving Sarasota, just ahead of thunderstorms, we continued south on the gulf intercoastal, occasionally slowing for blinding rain showers; out the inlet at Venice, and motoring fast, well sailboat fast at about 7 knots, we outran the main thunderstorms. Rough weather continued to plague us all day, with the wind increasing (but of course at an inconvenient angle). We reversed our trip north,, entering at Charlotte Harbor by skimming as close to the Boca Grand pier as possible.....no fishing competition this time, which made it easier. We churned on through the intercoastal, eventually slanting off to starboard at green 16, easing in as far as we dared, with our 6 foot draft,  and anchoring off Ding Darling Wildlife refuge. It is a great anchorage, well protected from all sides but one. Guess where the wind shifted within an hour of anchoring. Yep, it howled down the intercoastal aimed right at us. A big storm was drifting nearer and we prepared as best we could. The winds and lightening hit at about midnight, causing lack of sleep, but no harm.

The next morning, we left for the gulf waters out the San Carlos Bay, motoring again to Marco Island. Marco Island was new to us and we were a little cautious, as Jose and Char had run aground there, briefly, just a week or so earlier. Our plan was to anchor in Factory Bay and we did. Reaching the anchorage was a little unnerving as it involved multiple intersecting channels, with shallow water and islands on all sides. The best thing to do is GO SLOWLY and follow the charts carefully. The anchorage itself was very nice, urban, with lots of 12 foot water around.

Our final destination on the gulf side was Little Shark River.We had anchored off shore about a mile or so on our way north and had hoped to do so again. Florida in June, though, is beset with daily thunderstorms and shifting winds. All day the wind blew from the northwest, kicking up  2 and a half to 3 foot waves with about a 3 second interval  between. Better yet, storms lurked about on all sides, bringing the threat of sudden gusts embedded in their midst.This was not conducive to anchoring out in open water. So, we decided to enter the river, although we were warned about the insect life and the 8-9 foot tides. Since we were uncertain whether we had 5 or 6 feet more to lose, we made sure to have at least 12 feet under us at anchor. Little Shark River is a charming place. The breeze was still blowing, and the water is beautiful there. We saw our first roseate spoonbill lforaging for dinner, and just as the sky darkened, the water came alive with crocodile eyes. We saw at least 12 or 15 before nightfall. Don't try swimming there, bad things will happen.

 Mindful of the bug warning, we closed the boat up tight with our screens and slept wonderfully. During the night, the breeze stopped.

When we awakened and prepared to leave, what a shock! The screen was matted with mosquitoes. And where the mosquitoes left an open space, the giant green horseflies filled it. Dressed from head to toe in protective clothing, Rick braved the attack, starting the engine and rushing forward to pull anchor. I raced out just in time to swing the boat around and blast out to open water. We were more fortunate than Luke and Jan, whose boat had been invaded during the night. The ensuing battle left bloody tracks inside and outside. Our battle was confined to the cockpit, but lasted for hours and left bloody scars on the boat. We hope never to have to anchor there again, but are glad to have seen the beauty at least once.

Sarasota Brings Out the Kid in Us

We lost Jose and Char in Sarasota. They had business to attend to and Wind Dancer and Sand Castle were interested in visiting Sarasota, a town that is really only reachable on the Gulf Coast Intercoastal Waterway, unless tou have excellent local knowledge, which we didn't. So, the two boats retraced their way under the Skyway Bridge and back down the Intercoastal, across the Sarasota Bay and under the bridge, motoring the entire way in windless air. Sarasota has put in dozens of municipal mooring balls, and left some space for anchorages too. Sarasota was a great stop. The Ringling Brothers Circus Museum was there, with all the charm and excitement of by gone days. We had a fantastic time, working our way through the old wagons and artifacts, past posters and costumes, trying our skill at balancing on a horse and a high wire and being goofy as clowns. Also in the museum was a huge room of miniature figures, demonstrating all the faccets of circus life from the hundreds of train cars, to the circus parade through town, to enormous mess hall tents, to the 3 ring big top. We were even able to meet the people who assemble and paint the figures and the man who designed it all. They are still working on it, 20 tain cars and about a 1000 figures to go.

 

To add to the day, the beautiful Ringling mansion sitting on the bay is open for tours. And, in a separate building, Ringling's magnificent collection of art, enough for a world class museum made the day complete.

And back to the municipal mooring balls just in time to catch the evening storm.